Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
